In Short: We now understand what the world’s best croissant should taste and look like, as well as appreciate all the work and effort that goes into making the pastry. Any trip to Melbourne must include a stop at Lune Croissanterie for a croissant and coffee.
When we were planning our latest sojourn to Melbourne, me and Coco and Viner Sacha unanimously agreed it had to include a stop at Lune Croissanterie. There are great croissants to be had in Sydney and Melbourne, yet after an hour or so at Lune, we were convinced that the croissants here are the next level on any pastry we’ve tasted in the country; it is definitely not just any ordinary croissant factory.
While the pastry masters at Lune Croissanterie may create upwards of 3000 croissants per week, you can witness the ‘no compromise’ approach to preparation, and the meticulous detail and consistency in every croissant. Sure, there is an occasional long line, but then again, it is to be expected when you are waiting for what is touted as possibly the world’s best croissant. Endorsed by The New York Times writer, Oliver Strand, in an article published in the paper’s T Magazine section, the croissants were described as “…the finest you will find anywhere in the world…”.
A niche bakery with a cult following, Lune Croissanterie is the brainchild of former aerospace engineer Kate Reid. With an engineering background, and having spent several years working for a Formula One racing team, before apprenticing at the famed Paris boulangerie Du Pain et des Idees, you can expect Reid’s croissant baking is perfected to an art-form.
Reid opened her pastry business, Lune Croissanterie, from a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop in Elwood in 2012. Then in 2015 she opened Lune Croissanterie 2.0 in the Fitzroy location with her brother Cam, and Nathan Toleman, the man behind The Kettle Black, Top Paddock, and many more successful café ventures.
The new Lune Croissanterie Fitzroy shop is minimalist in design, clean and spacious, and has long splayed LED lights on the ceiling that make you feel like you have just stepped into a space ship. At the centre of the space is the hub of the café; a glass cubed area called the Lune Lab, which is climate-controlled at 18 degrees; perfect for producing world class pastry. This is where the magic happens; where Kate and her team prepare the pastry and produce the ethereal, exceptionally flaky pastries.
On a long marble top, which takes centre-stage inside the Lune Lab, the bakers are hand-laminating, shaping and proofing all the croissants, Kouign-amanns, cruffins and whatever new pastry flavours they have come up with. Sitting in front of the lab is a professional dough press, where pastry dough is evenly and consistently pressed to the same thickness.
Not sure what to order? You can always look at the row of display-only pastry in front of the cashier, or allow the experienced wait staff to explain the different pastry croissants and flavours to you. When you order from the main service counter, it is delivered to you while you grab a bench spot, and you can enjoy it with a Small Batch coffee, or you can go high-end and book a croissant ‘flight’ session, where you book and pre-pay online, then take one of nine stools facing the Lune Lab while watching Kate and her team work; up close and personal. There is one sitting a day, and for about $35 you can enjoy three courses of pastries, including two experimental pastries that aren’t on the regular menu, with unlimited serves of coffee.
We decided to order from the main service counter and started with the traditional croissant. It was royally puffed up, crispy on the outside, light and buttery on the inside. You can see the well-defined layers of separation between the layers of soft, airy pastry, and eating it is like biting into clouds. There is also a glistening sheen of gloss on the outer layer. You might find yourself making a mess, as shards of crispy croissant flake off as you bite into it, but it is definitely worth it!
Moving away from the traditional croissant, we tried Lune Croissanterie’s twice-baked coconut pandan croissant. The filling has the rough textures of shredded coconut, with sugar and pandan flavours. Its filling reminds me of another dessert, dadar gulung but without the gula Melaka flavours. Definitely a bold filling to put inside a croissant, but its delicious and it works.
Finally, we tried the Kouign-amann, which is like a caramelised croissant. It is sticky from the caramel, not too sweet, and has a crispy, flaky texture. When I ordered it, I thought it would be my indulgent treat but little Coco and Viner Sammi attacked it with such fervour that I was left with only a couple of small chunks to satisfy my craving!
While the focus is obviously on the pastries, coffee lovers aren’t forgotten either. A solid block counter houses the coffee machine, with the barista as focused on his coffee as the pastry chefs are on their croissants.
Coffee with your croissant; does it get any better than that first thing in the morning? The flat white is made with a blend that is chocolatey with caramel notes. The milk work is silky smooth. For those who like a lighter roast, then this will be your kind of coffee. It is naturally sweet and delicious, so much so, I am not wanting for my regular one teaspoon of sugar.
Little Coco and Viner Sammi tried the Mork hot chocolate. It has a nice rich flavour from the chocolate blend that’s crafted by Mork. It is like a box of chocolates with minimal sweetness to allow the cocoa flavours to standout.
I have always been a home baker that bakes with rough estimation; but here at Lune Croissanterie, it’s precision cooking with rulers, scales, and measures. This ensures that each and every product that comes out of their premises is delivered with a consistency that with every croissant, you get the joy of pastry perfection. If Fitzroy wasn’t renowned enough already for its diverse quality of food, Lune Croissanterie elevates it up a notch.
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