Devon North Sydney

In Short: Devon goes hard and does it so well with a clever infusion of Asian flavours splattered throughout the menu and mated with great coffee. Definitely check out the specials menu.

And. We are back! It’s been a long 4 months between blog posts and boy have we missed going out. As we head into November, dining experiences are protocol intensive and for the Sydney team at least, the spontaneity of the past may need to be adapted. On the bright side, we are seeing Sydney city come alive with people heading out for a feed. It is only appropriate we launch back with one of the very best cafes in the city. Our love of Devon goes back many years. I recall first taking a punt and heading to Waterloo and Danks Street to try the first Devon experience and ever since we have been hooked. We have been to each of the Devon locations including the city location, Barangaroo, their Dopa rice bowl concept diner and now their North Sydney location.

Devon can be characterised as the type of cafe which will push the boat out with the injection of Asian flavours, recipes and use of premium ingredients. Think spanner crab, sea urchin and Wagyu as examples.

Speaking of spanner crab, that’s the first dish to land on the table. Spanner Crab Toast is dainty, refined and well, not like any other toast you are used to. Actually unlearn, or “unknow” anything you know about toast. This is akin to a canapé that would kick things off at a fine diner. Something to get you in the mood. A sliver of Tasmanian sea urchin sits on a mound of spanner crab and it is all encased in a brioche shell. I got the salty, briny taste of the urchin followed by the sweetness of the spanner crab. I could easily go for 3 more, truly spectacular.

During the lockdown, I really enjoyed whipping up my favourite cafe inspired dishes. One I thought which is fairly accessible was a smashed avo on toast. I thought I did a reasonable job, but there were just a few 1 percent extras that really elevates smashed avo that is featured at Devon. Devon titles its avo creation as a Sheila. Like with the spanner crab toast, the extras here really take it up a notch. Meredith Dairy goat feta adds texture, saltiness anda creamy punch. Piment d’ Espelette delivers a warming sensation and there is still the avocado with herbaceous notes and complemented with a splash of lemon. This all sits on a sourdough with half boiled eggs. The cooks in the kitchen taught me a thing or two on how to do a proper smashed avo on toast.

Our little Sammi is quickly developing a palate that is distinctly drawn to well made protein. She may not quite grasp what wagyu means in terms of the processes that go into rearing an animal that will one day provide fillets of meat with outstanding flavour that is so coveted. She does know a well made dish and will demonstrate an ability out eat everyone at the table. Devon had a special Wagyu Sandwich on its menu and when it arrived there was no mistaking that it would be special. Pink in the middle, the fillet had a crumb. Accompanying it was just the most delicious caramelised onions that were savoury yet sweet. Of course, the wagyu was sublime. Was it tender? That’s a silly question, it was ridiculously tender!  Moist, juicy, I was fortunate to have one little bite, such was Sammi’s appreciation of the sandwich.

We may have taken a Saturday lunch for granted, but no more. Our first real cafe experience since lockdown was thoroughly enjoyable and the team at Devon delivered food that ensures that it continues sit at the top of tree of cafes.